Sunday, August 19, 2018

Creamy Peach Ice Cream for Hot Summer Days


bowl of peach ice cream on a wooden table


 The flavors were either peach or strawberry.  Although everyone in our family and close friends know that Val's favorite flavor is chocolate chip.  Chocolate chip with real, thick hot fudge,  homemade whipped cream and topped with chopped walnuts.  I always felt special when she let me have the maraschino cherry with its dyed red stem and chewy candied fruit flesh that adorned the top of her sundae. But she never made chocolate chip ice cream.  It was always in July or August and always peach or strawberry.
  Fresh fruit in a custard base made rich and creamy with egg yolks, whole milk and heavy whipping cream.  It had to be a special occasion to haul out the old ice cream maker and buy the rock salt at Eastman's Hardware on Main Street and the bags of ice, already melting on the backseat floor of our green Oldsmobile by the time we made it back to East Falmouth.  The bright orange, heavy duty electrical cord ran from the socket in the kitchen by the phone just inside the back door, along the porch and ended at the machine under the oak tree that provided a bit of shade and extra insurance that the custard would chill enough on a wickedly humid, hot August afternoon.  The wooden bucket of the ice cream maker held the gray rock salt that cradled and cushioned the insulated metal canister attached to the paddle that was turned by the motor.  It let out a steady drone while it did its work, churning, incorporating air and slowly, oh so very slowly turning that magical mixture of dairy, egg yolks and sugar into ice cream.
  Typically, at that age, around seven to ten years old, I didn't really appreciate the uniquely delectable flavor of the rich, homemade ice cream. I much preferred more sweetly saccharin tastes and the slick mouth feel of a Dairy Queen soft serve covered in a hard candy shell- chocolate flavored liquid that froze moments after it was poured over the cold ice cream or the excitement of a trip to Friendly's, getting a scoop of bright pink watermelon sherbet covered in chocolate "Jimmies".  Homemade ice cream to me was just basic.  Like so many made from scratch food we ate during my childhood: homemade chocolate chip cookies made with real butter and Toll House Semi-Sweet Chocolate Morsels instead of Chips Ahoy, homemade bread for our lunchbox PB&J sandwiches instead of Wonder Bread, homemade pizza on Friday nights instead of take-out from the Greek place down the street.  I longed for the latest, store-bought food items that everyone else seemed to be eating instead of the meals and treats that my mother took the time and care to make at home, not yet realizing that many years later, I would crave the very recipes that I was pushing away.
  Now, I find myself looking to recreate those flavors today.  I am lucky to be able to send a quick text or make a phone call and just ask Val about the dishes she made, the recipe ingredients, to clarify the memories. And she, being so ridiculously organized, knows within minutes, exactly where each recipe can be found.  This one for Peach Ice Cream is located in volume #6 of the Woman's Day Encyclopedia of Cookery published in 1966.  She still has the full edition of the "Encyclopedia" ready for reference on the bookshelves in the living room, for all the times I stop by to borrow a volume or two. 
  The instructions provided in these books are not always as precise as the recipes that are written today.  For instance, this ice cream calls for 2 cups sweetened crushed fresh peaches.  (Sweetened with sugar? How much? )  And there are no apologies for length of time spent in the kitchen, short cuts, hacks or dietary substitutions.  Just straight forward recipes describing what you want to make and how to do it.  I think of this as I begin to grow impatient while gently stirring the custard base over simmering water.  It's a slow process that one cannot speed up by increasing the heat or whirring the ingredients in a high powered blender.  To do it right, to attain the same flavor as I remember, there is only one method.  As I will myself to relax into my task, I realize that I don't want to change anything about it.  This stirring, and waiting and peeling fresh, ripe, juicy peaches is where I want to remain for the short time it takes while my memory of family, hot summer days and creamy, rich ice cream swirls around in my head.

old cook book featuring ice cream recipes and illustration


  Here is the Peach Ice Cream recipe with the same ingredients and basic method as the original.  I added more details to the directions to make it a bit more clear by today's standards in recipe writing and left out the information about cracked ice and rock salt....

Peach Ice Cream
(makes about 1 1/2 quarts)

6 egg yolks
2 cups whole milk
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon almond extract
2 cups sweetened, crushed peaches (2 cups peaches plus 2-3 tablespoons sugar or more to taste), chilled 4-6 hours

  In the top part of a double boiler, beat egg yolks and milk with a wire whisk until well blended.  Add sugar and salt.  Cook, stirring constantly, over hot, not boiling water until the mixture is thick enough to coat a metal spoon.  Let cool for 10 minutes, then add cream and almond extract.  Refrigerate 4-6 hours before freezing in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer directions.  Add 2 cups sweetened peaches half way through the freezing process.  Store ice cream in airtight containers in freezer.  Allow to set for 2-3 hours before serving. 

  This is a super quick ice cream recipe, one that I made to go along with the Peach Ice Cream since Chocolate Chip is my mother's ultimate favorite.  It was deemed a success and a lot easier to pull off, if you have less time and patience.

Chocolate Chip Ice Cream
(makes 1 1/2 quarts)

1 cup sugar
1 cup whole milk
2 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla
6 oz. mini semi-sweet morsels

  In a bowl, whisk together the milk and sugar until the sugar is dissolved.  Stir in the heavy cream and vanilla and whisk to combine well.  
  Turn on ice cream maker and pour the mixture in, following the manufacturer directions.  Churn ice cream for about 25-30 minutes until frozen.  During the last five minutes, add the mini morsels and allow the paddle to incorporate them into the ice cream.  Scoop out ice cream into air tight containers and store in freezer.  Allow ice cream to firm up for 1-2 hours before serving.


 

Friday, July 20, 2018

Underwater Daydreaming


a cup of grape juice mixed with lemonade on a beach towel with a beach bag
Grape Juice and Lemonade, refreshing summertime beverage
 Sunscreen ran into my eyes and stung like crazy until I finally rubbed away the last bit of it.  Every time I re-emerged at the surface after diving under the waves, I wiped the salty water from my eyes with the tips of my fingers leaving my eyelids and the skin covering my cheekbones exposed to the strong summer sun.  There are snapshots of me in an old photo album with white blonde hair, burning red cheeks and freckles dotting the bridge of my nose.  I am wearing shorts and a t-shirt, after beach attire.  Smiling, big front teeth, the Harding teeth, "as big as Chiclets", my dad has always said.  Remember that gum?  Rectangles of smooth, hard candy shell encasing the chewy center, bright white spearmint or multi-colored "fruit" flavored in the orange box.  Shake the box to release one into your hand and pop it in your mouth.
  Soft waves at Chapoquoit beach,  I am diving underwater and opening my eyes to the world below the surface.  A blur of tan, orange, black and brown pebbles worn smooth by the surf.  Bright green seaweed attached to larger rocks, drifting and rocking back and forth with each surge of the water.  I held my breath for as long as I possibly could, for what seemed like five or even ten minutes to an eight or nine year old me.  In reality, it was more like thirty seconds.  I popped up through the water with a gasp into the bright sunlight, impossibly blue sky. 
  I spent a lot of time in the water day dreaming, playing, talking to myself.  No friends around to goof off with, they were all off doing something else: summer camp, visiting far away family, trips to Vermont.  I was compelled to make my own fun or play with my younger brother.  Lost in thought, daydreaming, bobbing up and down in the waves, I can't recall what I played at or thought about during all those hours swimming at the beach, only how it felt to float on my back in the salt water as my body drifted a few feet away and my mother yelled for me to come back in front of her to where she could see and watch over me.
  None of Declan's friends were at the beach the other day.  There is usually a crew of boys who spend their time fishing off the dingy dock then running over to jump off the big dock at high tide, after that start a pick-up game of Wiffle ball on the sand behind the life guard chair until they jump back into the water again. They expend a lot of energy running around the beach, but not this day.  All was quiet.  Elderly couples reading hard cover novels checked out from the library down the street, moms with infants and toddlers nestled under umbrellas.  And me. No one any twelve year old boy would want to hang out with.  The tide was too low for jumping off the big dock.  He spent a few minutes fishing until the bolt from his rod flew into the water rendering his reel useless.  There was nothing left to do.
  "Mom, do you want to go in the water with me?"  He must have been really desperate.
  We floated in the shallow water near the sandbar, only a few feet deep, watching minnows and hermit crabs scurry away from the monstrous and terrifying shadows our bodies made from the sun's reflection. Declan dove under the water, making his body shimmy like the tiny fish just below the surface then flipped himself onto his back to float near me.  I managed to keep my head, hat and sunglasses from touching the water by moving my arms back and forth and my feet out in front of me, hot pink polished toenails poking through,  just like my mother used to do.  She never wanted to get her hair wet, either.  As he rested, with his eyes shut, the salt water keeping him afloat, he asked me,
  "When you were a kid, did you open your eyes underwater?"
  I smiled and did a small inaudible laugh, the kind when you suck in a little air, my voice not making any noise,
  "Yes", I said.  "Yes, I did."

three kids at the edge of the water at the beach


  Val always packed a lunch for the beach and brought along some juice for us to drink.  Her summer specialty was Welch's grape juice and lemonade made from frozen concentrate and stored in her Tupperware juice container.

Grape Juice and Lemonade
(makes a large container of juice)

1 can (purple) Welch's Grape Juice frozen concentrate (11.5 oz.)* 
1 can frozen lemonade concentrate (11.5 oz.)*
water
ice cubes

  Allow both cans of concentrate to melt.  Mix each can according to package directions in two different containers.  In a third container combine 1/2 of each mixed juice.  Add enough ice cubes to keep cold.  Place in cooler with plastic cups.  Bring to the beach.

* Newman's Own Virgin Lemonade and Newman's Own Grape make perfect substitutes for the frozen concentrate(s) mixed with water.  Just combine equal parts of each and serve over ice.  Val would approve.

Sunday, July 1, 2018

Annual Fourth of July Parade and Picnic: Where Does the Time Go?


family at boat harbor on July 4th



  In just a few days, it will be time for the annual fourth of July parade and picnic. After a long winter and school finally letting out for the summer, everyone is ready to celebrate with family and friends.  We are already feeling nostalgic, my friend Deb and I, about this event as our oldest children blossom into teenagers and the youngest are not far behind.  How much longer will they indulge their mothers by dressing in red, white and blue, waving flags in the air and actually hang out with us?
  I began dragging my family to the 4th of July parade in the tiny village of Quissett, MA when Ava was about three and Declan, already walking but still a pudgy baby, barely a toddler.  Deb tipped me off to this quaint, little parade with it's low key vibe, grass roots gathering styled mixed with a little humor about current politics as the participants dressed in costume and made signs to illustrate their point.  An ultimately patriotic celebration along a small harbor nestled between Woods Hole and Sippewisett at base of the Knob.

July 4th parade in Quisset, MA on Cape Cod

Spectators and bike riders in annual Quisset, MA July 4th parade



  Early on the morning of the 4th, year after year, I drag out my decorations: finds from Christmas Tree Shops, Job Lot and the Dollar Store.  I've decorated strollers, wagons, bikes and bike helmets, adhering stars and stripes pinwheels, tiny flags, sparkly stars and bunting with duct tape.  My work makes me sweat as the time ticks by and the sun rises in the sky.  I holler for Rob when it's time to load it all into the car, carefully, as not to disturb all of my handiwork.  I watch over him as he struggles to make it all fit and curse and threaten when he appears to not be taking enough care with my works of art.
kids on wagon on fourth of July
boy on bike decorated with American flag

  Of course, this part of the day never takes place in advance.  There is no pre-planning organization unlike most happenings in the rest of my life.  Independence Day always seems to creep up on me.  The inevitable snow day make-ups for school tacked onto the end of the school year force us to keep the academic schedule until the very end of June.  The last day of school finally comes and I can barely take a breath before it's time to dig out the patriotic gear and get ready to celebrate the birth of our nation.
  As if all of the decorating weren't enough, once all of the wagons, bikes, chairs, umbrellas and blankets are loaded up, it's time for me to focus in the kitchen.  Of course, there needs to be snacks for such an event.  We cannot survive on the melting Hershey Kisses and slimy peppermints tossed haphazardly to parade spectators by children riding in their grandparents' cars adorned with painted poster board and red, white and blue streamers.  No.  That won't do.  After all, it will be close enough to lunch time when the parade finally passes by the second time and leads everyone to the grassy hill with a view overlooking the harbor where there are cold cans of cheap beer and a bathroom in the old clubhouse perched at the top.  Someone starts the crowd singing a few public-spirited songs: The Star Spangled Banner and America the Beautiful. The kids run around and make forts under the few tall bushes along the old wooden fence using the towels and blankets I brought for the adults to sit on.  We dragged our wagons filled with coolers, chairs and umbrellas onto the grass.  Deb begins to set up a luxury picnic area  and demands her in-laws be seated before the kids steal all of our stuff.  She has a fold-out picnic table and multiple coolers filled with Prosecco, ice, cold beers and drinks for the kids, too.  We've figured it out after a number of years.  She brings the drinks and I bring the sandwiches, chips and cookies.  My menu hasn't changed much since the first picnic.  Roast beef with "Russian" dressing and Quick Pickled Onions, Turkey with mango chutney and crisp garden lettuce, both piled high onto palm-size snowflake rolls: small round balls of Portuguese bread, soft and pillowy.  They are the perfect size to hold in your hand while you hold a glass of bubbly in the other.   Those, salty, crunchy, Cape Cod Potato Chips, (duh), one bag for those grubby kids hands and one for the adults.  To top it all off, a fresh batch of All-American Chocolate Chip Cookies-easy to transport.  I love it when the dark chocolate chips get cold when the Ziploc bag of cookies ends up at the bottom of the cooler with the ice packs.
  When we pass the cookies around, that's the signal to begin packing up.  A few cups of Prosecco or a couple of beers in the midday sun calls for a nap or a dip in the ocean.  We have most of the day and a lot of celebrating still ahead.  Time to enjoy the beach and get ready for whatever festivities this holiday brings.  But for now, our bellies are full and there is a relaxed contentment in the air.  And for me, I'm just happy that my kids consented to another year at the annual 4th of July parade.
little girls at July 4th parade









celebrating July 4th at the harbor in Quisset, MA



celebrating July 4th in patriotic gear with flags
Baby celebrating July 4th





















  These sandwiches are super easy.  A couple of  sauces that jazz up everyday cold cuts make them seem fancier than they really are.

Roast Beef Sandwiches with "Russian Dressing"
(makes about 8 small sandwiches)

1 pound thinly sliced deli roast beef
1 1/2 cups "Russian Dressing"  (see recipe below)
pickled red onions (see recipe below)
8 Portuguese snowflake rolls* or small slider buns

  Slice rolls in half.  Slather Russian Dressing on both sides of bread.  Be generous but not sloppy.  Layer one slice of roast beef onto each half of bread.  Place a few pickled onions on top of roast beef of one half, being careful to shake off any excess liquid.  Put sandwich together and wrap in wax paper.  Store sandwiches individually wrapped in wax paper in a larger container so that they stay neat in the cooler.

*Portuguese snowflake rolls can be found in most Portuguese bakeries.  They are tiny versions of Portuguese bread and perfect for finger sandwiches.

  Not exactly sure why this is "Russian" but this is my version of the popular deli classic.

"Russian Dressing"
(makes about 1 3/4 cups dressing)

3/4 cup ketchup
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 heaping Tablespoons dill pickle relish
2 teaspoons French's Classic Yellow Mustard
1 teaspoon spicy horseradish
1 teaspoon sriracha
1 pinch each salt and pepper

  Mix all ingredients together.  Keep refrigerated up to one week.

Quick Pickled Onions
(makes about 1 cup)

1 red onion, cut in half, then sliced
1 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon pickling spice (bundled in cheese cloth and tied with kitchen twine)

  Slice the onion in half then slice each half of red onion and place in a small saucepan.  Add vinegar, water and sugar.  Stir to combine.  Place pickling spice onto a square of cheese cloth about 4" by 4" and tie the ends with kitchen twine.  Add bundle to onion mixture.  (If you don't have pickling spice, a bay leaf, a few peppercorns and some dry mustard sprinkled into the onion mixture will do the trick.)  Bring everything to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 5 minutes.  Turn off heat and allow onions to cool in vinegar and spices.  Refrigerate onions submerged in pickling liquid for up to one week.

  Another ridiculously easy picnic sandwich recipe....

Turkey and Mango Chutney Sandwiches
(makes about 8 small sandwiches)

1 pound deli turkey, sliced thin
1 jar Crosse & Blackwell Hot Mango Chutney
1 small head fresh lettuce 
8 Portuguese snowflake rolls

  Slice rolls in half.  Spread chutney on each half of bread.  Layer one piece of turkey on each half of bread.  Rip a few pieces of lettuce so that it fits neatly on the snowflake roll and just hangs off the edge.  Place lettuce in between the two halves of bread, in between turkey layers.  Wrap each sandwich in wax paper. Place individually wrapped sandwiches in a container to keep them neat in the cooler.

All American Chocolate Chip Cookies
(makes about 36 cookies)

1 stick of unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup Crisco
3/4 sugar
3/4 cup brown sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 1/4 cups flour
1 12 oz. bag semi-sweet chocolate chips

  Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 
  Mix butter, Crisco, sugar and brown sugar in a stand mixer until light and fluffy (about 5 minutes).  Add eggs and mix well to combine.  Add salt, baking soda and vanilla.  Mix well, again.  Remove bowl from mixer and add flour.  Stir with a wooden spoon until incorporated.  Add chocolate chips and stir to combine.  Drop by teaspoonfuls onto lined cookie sheets (silicone baking mats or parchment paper).  Bake for 9-11 minutes until edges and tops are golden brown.  Allow to cool for a few minutes on the pan, then remove cookies to racks to cool.  Store in an airtight container.